Cutting and Preparing Materials
Start by cutting your two 24"x48" sections of plywood. Precision is crucial when cutting these pieces. Small errors can affect your playing surface. Frame your plywood with the 2x4s, aiming for tight fits.
For the handles, take your skirt sides (boards marked "B" on your cut list) and drill a centered hole 1" from the bottom. Use a one-inch Forstner bit to drill holes 2-1/2" either side of center, and remove the waste with a jigsaw. Smooth those handle slots using a 3/8" radius router bit.
Use the pocket hole jig to drill holes along the entire skirt: sides and ends. These ensure a solid fit when fastening the top.
Preparing the Legs
- Trim your skirt boards to 3-1/4" wide so they sit inside the frame when packed.
- Cut the half-round shape with a band saw or jigsaw.
- Make a 30-degree angled cut for the foot.
- Drill a 3/8" hole centered 1-5/8" from the top for the carriage bolt.
Stain your skirt and legs. Dark gel stain works well, but let it dry for 24 hours before adding three coats of spar varnish.
Preparing the Plywood Tops
- Seal them with two coats of shellac and let dry.
- Create a custom design if desired.
- After painting, drill the center hole, three inches across at nine inches from the top.
- Use a jigsaw to cut through and sand smooth with 180-grit paper.
Attach the top to the skirt using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Secure the cross braces with 2-inch flathead screws. Attach a spirit level to ensure a fair playing field.
Install the legs, connecting them to the skirt with carriage bolts and threaded knobs. Place a washer between the leg and frame for stability while allowing movement.
Add slip hinges and small latches to combine two boards for storage. Use a motorcycle cargo net or elastic, attached inside each board frame with washer-head screws, for bag storage.
Assembling the Frame and Legs
Position the 48-inch 2×4 pieces parallel to each other. Insert the 21-inch pieces between them to form a sturdy rectangle. When driving in pocket holes and screws, focus on precision for durability and stability.
Attach the legs with carriage bolts, aiming for smooth folding action. Guide the bolts through pre-drilled holes and use washers to reduce friction. If the legs don't move freely, some adjusting and sanding of rough spots should help.
Ensure each leg fits perfectly when folded. This makes setup and packing simple. As you tighten the nuts onto the bolts, leave some play for smooth operation.
Finishing and Painting
Sand the surfaces of your boards with fine grit sandpaper, focusing on the edges and hole. This creates an ideal surface for bean bags to glide upon.
Apply a protective coating like high-gloss varnish or paint. This provides visual appeal and a slick playing surface. Apply the finish evenly, allowing proper drying time between coats.
Adding Custom Designs
- Use painter's tape to outline patterns
- Choose durable exterior-grade paint
- Paint with smooth strokes, watching for drips
- Remove tape while paint is still wet for clean lines
Consider storage options to protect your boards from the elements when not in use.
Your finished cornhole boards are now ready for action. They'll provide entertainment and create moments of joy during gameplay. Your hard work has produced a set of boards that showcase both functionality and style.
"Cornhole is a great way to enjoy the outdoors. Here are some cornhole boards that are easy to build and carry around – let the games begin!"
- American Cornhole League. Regulation 312.4, section G.
- American Cornhole Association. Official Cornhole Rules.
- GoSports Classic Portable Cornhole Set. Product specifications.
- Slick Woody's. Custom Cornhole Board Sets.