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Bent Wood Laminations

Creating Bending Forms

To start bending wood laminations, preparation is crucial. Begin by designing a sturdy template. MDF works well — it's easy to handle and lacks grain direction issues. Sketch two molds: the inside and outside, which will shape your piece.

For precision, use a CNC machine. For a traditional approach, routers, bandsaws, or jigsaws suffice. Ensure smooth lines, as imperfections will show later.

After cutting, sand the molds to remove any marks. Optionally, wrap glue-contact areas with packing tape to prevent adhesion and simplify cleanup.

Align molds perfectly. Use a flush trim bit at the router table for uniform shaping. Sanding blocks and an oscillating spindle sander add final smoothness. Fix any non-square areas here.

For laminate gluing, Titebond Extend glue offers extended working time. Use a brayer for even glue distribution. Stack veneers carefully, place in the mold, and clamp firmly. Use 7 to 10 clamps for uniform pressure.

Allow the laminated piece to cure overnight, or 24 hours for best results. Unmold gently, avoiding damage. Trim edges neatly and sand to finish.

Two MDF molds, one concave and one convex, placed side by side on a workbench

Preparing Veneers

Veneer preparation starts with resawing. Use a well-tuned bandsaw to slice hardwood into thin, consistent strips. Aim for 1/16-inch thickness — this is ideal. Uniformity is key. Overly thick strips resist bending; too thin lack strength.

After cutting, sand thoroughly for smoothness and evenness. A drum sander is optimal, but a random orbit sander works too. Sand each piece carefully, as this step affects the final bend quality and adhesion.

Post-sanding, inspect each veneer. Check for issues that might complicate gluing or affect appearance. This careful examination ensures better bending and alignment in the finished project.

A woodworker carefully resawing hardwood on a bandsaw to create thin veneers

Veneer Glue-Up

For gluing veneers, choose a glue with extended open time, like Titebond Extend. This allows more setup time without rushing. Apply glue to one side of each strip, keeping the process manageable and ensuring proper coverage.

Stack the pieces precisely, aiming for a neat, uniform pile that fits smoothly into the mold. Insert the glued layers into the mold setup and apply clamps generously. Place clamps strategically for even pressure distribution, crucial for preventing gaps and ensuring solid bonding.

Clamp firmly but evenly. Uneven pressure can create weak spots, so check each clamp's effectiveness. Once clamped, let it set. An overnight cure is good, but 24 hours is better.

This curing period allows the wood to settle and bond properly, strengthening the joint.

A woodworker applying glue to wood veneers and stacking them carefully

Unmolding and Finishing

After curing, gently release the laminated piece from the molds. A slight wiggle can help if it's stuck, but avoid forceful pulling.

Once free, trim excess edges to final dimensions using a bandsaw or table saw. Work slowly and precisely, refining the shape carefully. Ensure clean, accurate cuts.

Next, sand thoroughly. Use a random orbit sander for exterior surfaces and hand-sand interior curves for better control. Careful sanding creates a smooth finish that enhances the piece's look.

For finishing, apply a protective coat for both aesthetics and durability. Choose penetrating oil to highlight the wood's natural beauty or paint for specific colors or styles. Apply the finish evenly and allow complete drying before handling.

A carpenter gently removing a curved laminated wood piece from its mold

In wood bending, preparation is key. Each step, from mold creation to finishing, shapes your project into a lasting piece. The care invested throughout reflects in the quality of your craftsmanship.

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  2. Perkins D. Adding curves to your designs. Woodsmith. 2018;235:22-25.
  3. Grönquist P, Rüggeberg M. Programming wood for self-shaping architectural structures. Nature Communications. 2021;12:3529.